Jump to content

A new Logic user (allmost) ...


Recommended Posts

Hello,

 

I'm currently deciding to buy the following setup :

 

- Imac 20" 2.66GHz/2GB/320GB/SD/ATI 2600 PRO

- 4 GB upgrade

- HD External 500 GB Firewire 800

- Logic Studio

- M-audio Firewire 410

 

I have these tools at home :

- Edirol UM-880 (currently with my pc) for all my Midi connections.

- Edirol U-A5 (should I keep this or is the Firewire 410 a big improvement ?)

- Roland XP-60

- Roland VS-1824cd

- ROLAND VM-3100

- Yamaha An1X

- Roland V-drums

- Akai S-2000

- Different pre-amps and oudboard

- Acoustic, electric guitars and electric bass.

- Amps and Line 6 POD 2.0. Several stomp boxes.

 

Is this a good idea to buy? I need a stable system. I'm most of the time recording myself so I don't need a lot of ins and outs. Occasionaly I record some bands using the VS-1824cd. Maybe I will use the Imac ?

 

Will I be able to control my synths, VS-1824 cd and VM-3100 with apple and the other way too? (Like i'm doing with Sounddiver on my old PC). Will I be able to use the Rolands VM and VS as control surfaces for LOGIC Pro like I'm doing with my PC and Cubase. Will I be able to use soft synths and instruments with this setup without latency or should I consider another Audio Firewire Interface. Is the sound quality good?

 

Thank you very much for your time!

 

Greetz.

 

Ginz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would generally recommend against the M-Audio 410. I have a lot of issues with it losing connection and clicking and popping. I'm not the only one. The internet is full of people complaining about this unit. Plus, it's not hot-pluggable, and it has no power switch, so when it loses connection, you have to shut down the entire computer and restart and HOPE that it gets connected again.

 

It seems to have particular issues with Macbook Pros. Some people get weird noises and such.

 

By the way, if any 410 users stumble onto this post, plugging the 410 into the wall for power sometimes helps SOME of these issues.

 

I would buy a more expensive unit on Ebay for a good deal rather than buy a 410.

 

Concidentally, if you DO still decide to buy one, I'll give you a good deal one mine. :wink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+ 1.

Never liked M-Audio stuff.

 

Feels bad, looks bad, sounds bad, the drivers are bad...

 

Go with Metric Halo, RME, Apogee, MOTU, PreSonus...

 

Unless you also need to use Pro Tools, run away from M-Audio interfaces.

 

But YMMV.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You seem to like the Edirol/Roland stuff. I have been using an FA-66 for some time with no issues at all. May be an option for you. There is also a 10 in 10 out version. BTW lock up the AN-1X. I've been trying to steal my brother's but he wont let me near it. :D
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

 

Thanks for your replies. There's currently a promotion on the Motu Ultralite. I erased the idea of the M-audio, too many bad reviews on the net. I was just wondering if it is interesting to wait for the Ultralite Mk3 or to buy the older model in promotion price. Do you have an opinion on that? Promotion price (+/- 500$)

 

For Roland and Edirol I have allways been happy with the customer service and the quality of their products. I'm hesitating with the Edirol FA-101 but I think (as to what my local shop owner said) that Motu is still a little better in sound quality.

 

To JANICON: I have my An1x locked up (-:, it's just such a great synth. I would never sell it!

 

Greetz and thanks for all your replies. I'll keep you posted when I get my Imac on the 1/8!

 

Can't wait to play with it.

 

Ginz. 8)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can get a good deal on a ultralite you should definently get it.

 

Otherwise, that's going to be a great setup's, most people can vouch for the imac line being great for use of Logic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For monitoring i'm using Alesis M1 Actives and a pair of Yamaha NS-10. I like to compare my mixes on both. I'm used to the Alesis M1 Actives. I know a lot of people dislike them, but I find them very effective for mixing. I suppose I've learned to manage their weeknesses. When I record my V-Drums I use my Behringer monitors, because they can take a lot of volume. I don't know the exact model number, but they are quite big! It has to be loud when recording my drum tracks :lol:

 

I just decided to order the Ultralite, "old model", because I can't afford to wait for the new one.

 

Ginz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would generally recommend against the M-Audio 410. I have a lot of issues with it losing connection and clicking and popping. I'm not the only one. The internet is full of people complaining about this unit. Plus, it's not hot-pluggable, and it has no power switch, so when it loses connection, you have to shut down the entire computer and restart and HOPE that it gets connected again.

 

It seems to have particular issues with Macbook Pros. Some people get weird noises and such.

 

By the way, if any 410 users stumble onto this post, plugging the 410 into the wall for power sometimes helps SOME of these issues.

 

I would buy a more expensive unit on Ebay for a good deal rather than buy a 410.

 

Concidentally, if you DO still decide to buy one, I'll give you a good deal one mine. :wink:

 

As an owner of a FW410, I can agree with this and the other negative comments. Clicks, pops, losing connection, driver problems are all par for the course. It is workable, and can do the job, but if I had to do it all over again, I would find a less idiosyncratic solution.

 

One thing I have to correct it the "hot swappable" comment. I have been losing connection lately and my first line of defense is to disconnect the FW cable, wait and then plug back in. This usually fixes the problem. It may not be recommended to hot -plug the unit, but it does work. This eliminates the need to re-start the computer. Note that I would not try this if the unit was plugged into the wall.

 

The "hope is gets connected again" seems to have been fixed a few driver updates ago. Before that, I would try re-booting, re-plugging, re-installing and various voodoo rituals in the hope that the unit would re-connect.

 

Finally, there is a power switch of sorts. Actually, it seems to put the unit in standby mode. The problem is that when in standby, the bright blue power light blinks continuously. If the room has anything less than stadium lighting, the blinking gets real annoying real fast.

 

So, yes, I would also recommend staying away from the 410.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...